The Tactical Rifle

• While sports shooter’s don’t need them, WML’s are vital for home defence, survival use and of course real-world operations
• Half our lives are spent relying on artificial light sources in order to see; make sure you are in control of when and what you’re able to see during darkness
• Do not assume that WML’s are only for night time use. The day you need to clear a building or a storage facility with no running lights, will be the day you realised that you’ve fo*ked-up
• Don’t use cheap Chinese knock-offs, invest in a good brand that will offer reliability and performance when roughly handled
• Pressure pads are a game-changer, they allow for consistent shooting while simultaneously operating the light. This allows for proper recoil management without having to break your grip
• Use mini cable ties to secure pressure pad wiring to your handguard. Always carry spares
• Use white light only when necessary – and sparingly. Always try using short bursts of intermittent light rather than continuous beams. This is vital in keeping your location hidden and preventing pattern setting
• Run a light coat of oil or vaseline against your flashlight lens when mounted in a forward location on your rifle. This will help to easily remove carbon residue which is expelled from the muzzle, and ensure that you maintain a good focussed beam at all times
• Mount the light as close to the muzzle as possible. This will reduce the amount of light reflected from the rifle’s barrel, reducing your visual signature
• Consider mounting the light on the same side of the rifle as your strong arm/shooting hand. This will free up the space in front of your non-shooting eye, creating a clearer field of view when looking through your optic with both eyes open
• Always carry spares batteries for your WML and ensure that it is fully charged wherever possible

• Aim to carry at least 6 full magazines on your mission-critical gear at all times
• 30-round magazines are the ideal standard for the 5.56mm caliber
• A double-stack magazine should indicate full capacity when the top round sits to the right-side and won’t depress any deeper. If it sits on the left, you may have over-loaded your mag
• 10-round magazines are an excellent choice for precision ammo on a DMR [designated marksman rifle], increasing ground clearance when firing prone
• Magazine couplers (or MagLinks) may look cool, but they only add weight and bulk to a rifle and does not speed up the reloading process – avoid them!
• Mag grips also look cool – to some 😂  – but they are counterproductive. They may be useful under certain roles, such as an aerial marksman or helicopter sniper who requires a lanyard point
• There is no issue storing magazines fully loaded for prolonged periods; the springs are designed to be stored in a compressed state, and wear out faster when loaded/unloaded repetitively
• Tapping the mag once loaded (on a helmet as per Hollywood movies) ensures that the rounds are seated correctly, but also loosens set propellant which has been stored for long durations, creating more consistent burn rates

• The handguard protects the shooter’s hand from barrel heat, whilst providing a point for proper grip and ultimate control of the firearm
• Longer handguards allow for a proper C-Grip while keeping the support arm extended. At the same time, a longer handguard will allow for a full-forward mount of a WML, ideally placing it in-line with the muzzle
• The Picatinny Quad Rail, KeyMod & M-Lok Handrails are all modern options. The Quad Rail is heaviest, while the M-Lok is the current preferred system. Some KeyMod manufacturers design the rail to fit QD sling mounts along the entirety of the rail, without needing a dedicated QD mounting accessory (in the KeyMod slots themselves)
• Free-floated handguards are superior and can be installed on most rifles that lack this feature. Free-floated handguards improve consistency in the rifle’s harmonics, promoting accuracy
• Avoid attaching unnecessary accessories to your handguard; only use those which add value, otherwise you are increasing weight and fatigue for no reason other than looking cool

• Cheap pistol grips often feel thin and plasticky. Upgrading to a high-quality grip has the ability to improve the grip, feel and entire shooting experience
• Most pistol grips open up at the base. Consider using this hollowed-out area to store some of the following items:
  • An Allen/Hex key to remove primary optic if damaged (eg. LPVO) – engaging flip-up sights
  • Spare parts kit
  • Lens cleaning cloth
  • Spare batteries (for scope/optics)
  • Ear plugs
  • Cash

When it comes to laser pointers, my advice is as follows:

• If you’re using visible laser, get rid of it – they serve very little purpose and only add weight and bulk to your rifle
• If you’re using an IR laser in conjunction with NOD’s/NVG, then good on you; the system is amazing but expensive
• Make sure that you familiarise yourself with with your laser’s limitations (max. effective distance), and mount it in a position that allows for easy manipulation of the laser, as closer to the barrel as possible
• Attaching the laser directly above or beneath the barrel will provide the most accurate point of impact as your shooting distance changes
• Don’t forget to check battery life regularly

• Mil-spec triggers are purposefully designed with a strong pull – generally around 8lbs. They are reliable, solid, and contain a heavy pull to reduce the chances of an accidental discharge; ideal for CQB
• Rifle’s that are used for medium distance engagements as well as CQB – eg. the designated marksman rifle – will benefit tremendously from an upgraded trigger
• 3.5 – 4.5lbs is a good standard for a precision tactical trigger. Don’t go any lower as this will become a safety issue (on a tactical build, which differs from a benchrest rifle)
• You may wish to consider anti-walk/anti-rotate locking pins, which replace your AR trigger and hammer pins to ensure pins do not rotate or vibrate out of the receiver

• Buffer tubes are either commercial grade or mil-spec
• Mil-spec tubes are thicker and stronger than commercial tubes, and cost a little more
• It is important to know which of the two tubes you have when selecting an aftermarket butt-stock, otherwise you may find that it wobbles or doesn’t fit

• Butt stocks are typically either fixed or collapsible
• Standard issue stocks are fine, but aftermarket options offer improved features such as QD sling mounts, rubberised padding and adjustable cheek-pieces
• QD sling mounts are nice to have if you run a single sling amongst a variety of rifles
• You should always check your stock to ensure that it locks in tight, and does not have any play/wobble. If it does, consider replacing it
• When it comes to telescopic stock positioning, the position which allows the stock to sit in the crook of your arm (the soft inside part where you bend your elbow) while naturally handling the pistol grip should provide the best shooting. Keep this consistent as much as possible, shortening it only during storage or when wearing a bulky plate carrier
• Mounting a tourniquet to the rifle’s butt stock seems to be a common setup for many. If you decide to follow this trend, make sure that it doesn’t interfere with your ambidextrous shooting ability. If it does, move the tourniquet elsewhere, but try to keep it on your person at all times (while handling your rifle)

• Are they required? For any operational, survival or defensive rifle setup – absolutely! For sports shooting purposes, maybe not so much
• A backup sight, otherwise known as an EBS (or emergency battle sight), is commonly found in an iron-sight or mini red-dot configuration
• The EBS should sit on top of your rifle rails, on top of your primary optic, or offset – typically at 45-degrees
• Always make sure backup sights are zeroed, and check-zero them regularly
• Train with your backup sights often; simulate drills whereby your primary optic becomes unserviceable and you are reliant on your backup sight
• If you’re using flip-up sights beneath a magnifier or LPVO, make sure you have a tool handy to remove the primary optic
• Iron sights should always be placed as far forward and as rearward as possible; increasing the sight radius (distance between the front & rear sight), thus producing smaller angular errors when aiming
• When using an electronic backup sight, do not neglect the batteries, and always remember to carry spares
• Your backup sight should be treated just as well as your primary optic, as it may – during an emergency – become your primary optic

• Red dots and Holographic’s are recommended for rifles which are intended for close quarters use
• Low Powered Variable Optics (LPVO’s) are recommended for rifles which are intended for close quarter’s and longer distance shooting
• Whichever primary optic you select, always ensure that it has an illuminated reticle for low-light shooting, and always make sure batteries are charged
• The primary optic should also be mounted firmly to the upper receiver and not on the handguard. This ensures that the most consistent and accurate zero is maintained
• Always carry a waterproofed lens cleaning cloth with your rifle to keep lenses clean and serviceable
• Red dots and Holographic’s can be mounted towards the front-end of the upper receiver, allowing less interference around the charging handle. LPVO’s generally mount further back to provide the best eye-relief
• Check optic screws and mounts regularly, making sure they are always torqued to the correct setting

• Are they required? For any operational, survival or defensive rifle setup – absolutely! For sports shooting purposes, maybe not so much
• A backup sight, otherwise known as an EBS (or emergency battle sight), is commonly found in an iron-sight or mini red-dot configuration
• The EBS should sit on top of your rifle rails, on top of your primary optic, or offset – typically at 45-degrees
• Always make sure backup sights are zeroed, and check-zero them regularly
• Train with your backup sights often; simulate drills whereby your primary optic becomes unserviceable and you are reliant on your backup sight
• If you’re using flip-up sights beneath a magnifier or LPVO, make sure you have a tool handy to remove the primary optic
• Iron sights should always be placed as far forward and as rearward as possible; increasing the sight radius (distance between the front & rear sight) and producing smaller angular errors when aiming
• When using an electronic backup sight, do not neglect the batteries, and always remember to carry spares
• Your backup sight should be treated just as well as your primary optic, as it may some day become your primary optic

• Suppressors do a few things very well; they reduce noise, muzzle flash and felt recoil
• The downside is that they increase the weight and length of a firearm, therefore increasing fatigue and limiting manoeuvrability
• Suppressors are great for DMR’s and for tactical rifles designed to shoot subsonic ammunition, such as the .300 Blackout. Just bear in mind that subsonic loads will have a drastic reduction in stopping power and knockdown potential
• Suppressors should be used only when your role requires them, not just because they look cool or reduce noise

• When positioned correctly, foregrips work well as a reference point to position your hand in precisely the same location each time, operating lights and pressure switches with consistency when needed
• When using a foregrip, your fingers should typically be divided between the handguard and the foregrip, placing enough backwards pressure on the foregrip to keep the stock pressed firmly against your shoulder while firing
• They can also act as a barrier stop, offering more stabilisation of the rifle during rapid shooting
• The improved grasp when using a foregrip aids in recoil management and accuracy
• Lastly, they improve ease of a proper carry position over long distance patrols; reducing stress on the support wrist and improving comfort

• Not using a rifle sling can be compared to not using a pistol holster; they are vital
• A good sling keeps your rifle attached to your person, freeing up your hands for other use. It also provides valuable weapon retention, allows you to stabilise the rifle for longer-distance shots, and allows you to transition from rifle to pistol without having to drop your firearm to the ground
• When it comes to sling selection, I would unquestionably recommend using an industry-leading two-point sling
• When mounting your sling, pay particular attention to front-end placement. Discover what works best for you, but consider a mounting location towards the rear or the rifle’s handguard, as this provides less interference when changing magazines